There are many sources on the Internet to tell you how to shave with your straight
razor but the first time can be a bit, well, tense. This is definitely a rite of
passage during which you do not need interruption so try to arrange it so you have
a bit of time alone. Lock the bathroom door. Here we go.
Make sure you have the following:
- Your razor (of course!)
- Your razor strop, hung from a handy point.
- A shaving brush
- Shaving soap and mug, if possible.
- Styptic pencil (just in case).
Run some warm water into the basin. This is for rinsing the razor. Fill the shaving
mug with warm water - not too hot as this will dry out too quickly on the skin -
and use your brush to work a lather up on the soap. If you don’t have a shaving mug
and soap, use a good quality shave cream but do try to use a brush and soap if possible
- they are much better, trust me. Work up a lather with the tip of the brush - don’t
‘scrub’ at it - until it’s good and creamy. Lather your face well. Take your time
- straight razor shaving is not to be hurried! Try to lather up a couple of minutes
before you start to shave - your face will thank you for it.
Now strop your razor as described elsewhere on our website. You’re ready! I would
suggest you start with the easy bits - your cheeks, as they are pretty flat and accessible.
Don’t try fancy tricks like shaving against the grain or the coup de maitre just
yet! Remember that your razor is, essentially, a push cutter, NOT a bacon slicer.
It does not rely on any slicing action to cut your stubble! DO NOT try to ‘slice’
your stubble off - you’ll take a flap of skin with it! Instead, hold the open razor
so that the handle is upward and the thumb and fingers rest comfortably on the tang.
Stretch the skin slightly with your free hand, always keeping it behind the cutting
edge. A good place to start is at the base of the sideburn (assuming you don’t sport
big sideburns) and draw the blade gently down your cheek. The angle of blade to skin
to aim for is about 20 degrees - about two widths of the razor’s spine. Deeper and
you’ll tear the stubble. Shallower and you risk a cut. It takes practice! Don’t be
disappointed if you first shave leaves you with stubble. It isn’t a quick fix. A
most important rule: let the tool do the work. If you don’t get a close shave, do
NOT apply pressure, thinking that this will work. It won’t and you’ll be left, probably,
with a bad cut.
If you’re still unsure about shaving technique, have a look at www.youtube.com entering
‘straight razor’ for the search - there are quite a few videos showing how it’s done.
It’s all about practice, technique and, above all, patience. Take your time. Enjoy
it. Soon you will be leaving the bathroom with a smooth, glowing face, smug in the
knowledge that you have tamed the tiger. You can go into work and know that you have
the skill - and courage - to apply three inches of the sharpest steel known to your
face - and lived to tell the tale. Okay, so that’s a bit melodramatic. Or is it?
Now go to the next page to learn how to look after your cherished possession.
